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Sewing
What is the difference between Poly Sheen and a conventional rayon cotton?
Poly Sheen consists of trilobal polyester. Trilobal polyester has a greater reflection area. The reflecting light thus achieves an increase brilliance - even with heavy duty, trilobal polyester shines, in contrast to rayon, like it did on the first day.
 
In addition to the exemplary brilliance, Poly Sheen also proves itself to be a better sewing and embroidery thread due to the following properties.
 

50% higher tear resistance as well as more optimal stretch characteristics.
Extremely high wear resistance (rub fastness).
Higher fastness to washing, boiling and light.
Higher colour fastness due to innovative dyeing technology.
More universal area of application, even with heavy-duty textiles.
Largest colour pallet with 351 colour benefits
High embroidery reliability. No interruption to the embroidery process through torn threads.
Gives embroidery an exceptionally long lifetime. Shine remains preserved as new for always.
The embroideries remain absolutely colour-fast, even with heavy duty such as chlorine bleach, rubbing wet/dry, washing and ironing.


Poly Sheen is thus now difficult to differentiate from rayon but has substantially better processing properties. The same embroidery thread can be used with a large number of textiles.

Which thicker sewing thread is well suited for decorative sewing work?
Our all-rounder SERALON in the thickness 30 is very well suited for this. This sewing thread has the right quality features for demanding sewing tasks, even if thicker materials are used. This thread also 'draws' very well so that you can easily carry out decorative sewing work. Another benefit is that you can use this sewing thread for the machine and for sewing thread by hand.
Can I use a transparent sewing thread on my sewing machine?

Our transparent thread TRANSFIL can easily be used on sewing machines. Be careful to use a topstitch needle. This type of needle has a larger eye and a larger groove than conventional needles. It is therefore perfect for use with special threads such as buttonhole threads, thicker decorative threads and our TRANSFIL transparent thread.


Please note: Reduce the stitching speed when using transparent threads. You may need to slacken the tension of the upper thread. However, you must maintain the tension of the lower thread.


TRANSFIL is particularly well suited for stitching together open edges using herringbone stitch. This is an ornamental stitch that does not produce an actual seam in the normal sense. Thanks to TRANSFIL, however, the seam produced is very stable and can also be overstitched using POLY SHEEN or any other embroidery thread.


I have acquired a couple of meters of black and écru-colored silk for lingerie. The silk is only very slightly elastic. Do I have to use elastic threads on this material?

Elastic threads are not necessarily the only option here. Most sewing machines have special stitch types for elasticized seams. If this is not the case, a fine zigzag stitch can also be used, but the thread tension must be perfectly set.


Puffy overlocking threads such as our SERAFLOCK are also ideal for use on lingerie. This thread is perfectly suited for creating elasticized seams on underwear and for flat seams and French seams on elastic fabrics, embroidery and knitwear.


My fabric always puckers when I am sewing. What can be causing this?

If the fabric puckers when being sewn the thread tension should be checked and re-adjusted.


If the fabric puckers when being embroidered, an embroidery backing should be used to stabilize the fabric and allow the embroidered picture to be properly formed.


Which thread should I use for sewing jeans?
Jeans are best sewn using our EXTRA STARK thread. This thread is perfectly suited for seams that are subject to heavy use. EXTRA STARK is also particularly good for the decorative seams often found on jeans.
What is the difference between a cotton thread and a polyester thread?

As the name suggests, these threads differ in their material composition. One is made from cotton, the other from polyester.


The typical features of these two all-rounders are as follows:


Amann Group Mettler makes its cotton threads exclusively from high quality, long-staple cotton. The mercerization process gives the thread an attractive shine and increased tensile strength.


Polyester threads offer outstanding properties such as high tensile strength and color fastness. These two threads are perfect all-rounders, and can both be used on polyester or cotton fabrics. They are particularly well suited for dressmaking, living accessories and patchwork applications.


sew a sit
I want to sew a seat. I have already chosen a color (1099). I have bought the thread - SERALON 30 - from Ludwig Beck Kurzware in Munich. I think I have got the size right. Today I compared the SERALON 30 with the thread used to sew my car seat and I have noticed some pilling with the SERALON. Instead of being smooth and a little shiny, the polyester fibers are standing out a little. I want to know if I have chosen the wrong thread. The thread also needs to cope with slippage stress (sideways) for a number of years, if you know what I mean.

SERALON 30 is used for decorative stitching. This is a fiber-based thread and therefore has a greater tendency to pill due to the fiber construction than, for example, our 35 strength EXTRA STARK. This thread is subjected to additional processing and is exceptionally good for all manner of decorative seams as well as for the application you describe.


The name EXTRA STARK is a programme: it is noted for its high tensile strength when sewing and for its high abrasion resistance. Whether or not it will stand up to years of wear also depends on the fabric used and the exact location of the seam. We offer EXTRA STARK in a total of 52 colors.


Embroidering
What is bobbin thread?
BOBBINFIL is a fine lower thread with an extremely long length. It is excellent for use in ornamental stitching and embroidery designs. The fine, soft lower thread hardly shows on the surface, which means that the embroidery "sits" particularly well on the fabric.
Why is Poly Sheen particularly good for embroidery?
POLY SHEEN is highly tear-resistant and its special cross-section gives it a very attractive glossy finish, combined with unparalleled color fastness. These features make POLY SHEEN the perfect machine embroidery thread, even at faster stitch speeds.
Can I use Amanda silk thread for embroidery on the sewing machine, and if so, how?
AMANDA silk thread can certainly be used for machine embroidery. Care must be taken with the following points: Use a topstitch needle with a large eye; a size 90 needle is ideal. The stitch speed must be somewhat reduced. Where AMANDA silk thread is to be used in the embroidery module, the pattern must be adjusted accordingly.
Can I use Seralon 30 for machine embroidery, and if so, how?
SERALON 30 can be used for decorative machine embroidery. The best results are achieved with a size 100 topstitch needle. The stitching speed needs to be reduced. We do not recommend using this thread for the embroidery module - the embroidery pattern must be adjusted in advance using embroidery software to suit the thicker thread.
What advantages are there to using a transparent thread, such as TRANSFIL, as a lower thread for embroidery applications?

In some embroidery patterns the lower thread is pulled up to the top at various points. This is nothing to do with the tension of the thread and cannot be regulated as such, but instead is related to the programming of the stitches.


In such cases, TRANSFIL has proved to be a good option. However, it does make the finished work quite hard. The additional stability is highly desirable in some applications but TRANSFIL is not a suitable lower thread to use for items that are designed to be soft and cuddly.


Why do ornamental stitches and satin stitch seams pucker on my fabric?
In general, an embroidery backing is necessary for all embroidery applications. This should be ironed on and must be highly stable. The backing used is often too thin. It is important to ensure that the right backing fabric is used for all satin stitch seams wider than 3mm.
Why does my metallic thread tear when I am embroidering?
It may be that you are using the wrong needle - ideally a size 90 topstitch needle should be used - and too fast a stitching speed. Slow your machine down when using METALLIC thread! Tip: Do not put the thread directly onto the machine but keep it in a glass at least one meter away from the machine. The longer distance to the needles serves to "relax" the thread.
The neon colors look far too powerful on the shelf. How do I choose the right color for my embroidery?
If the neon color looks too powerful then it is just right. This is simply a question of optical appearances. When you see the make-up on the face of a ballerina in close-up it looks excessive; when you see her on stage at a suitable distance it looks completely natural
Why does the Poly Sheen thread have more of a shine than cotton threads?
POLY SHEEN is a polyester thread. The very composition of polyester threads gives them more of a shine than a cotton thread. POLY SHEEN is also a so-called ‘trilobal’ polyester thread. The clover-leaf shaped cross section of the yarn, known in the trade as trilobal, catches the light in a different way, giving the thread its increased shine.
Can I use SERALENE as a lower thread for embroidery applications?
The overlocking thread SERALENE is very suitable for use as a lower thread for embroidery applications. It is particularly practical when the same color is used for both the lower thread and the upper thread.
Quilting
Can I use the same thread for patchwork and quilting? Or are there differences between the two that I need to take into account?

A very good question! For patchwork (piecing) we use 100% cotton. Mettler Silk Finish, 50 weight or Fine Embroidery, 60 weight are perfect choices. I suggest using off white colour 512 for medium to light patches or medium grey colour 724 for medium to dark patches! They both blend well and save time and effort saving you effort and time choosing colours to match each patch.

When choosing a Quilting thread... anything goes! Traditionally we use a 40 weight cotton for hand quilting but as so many people now machine quilt there is an even greater choice.

100% cotton is still a favourite in 60, 50, 40 or 30 weight…Mettler produces many weights of cotton so that you can achieve the exact look you want. Remember, the larger the number the finer the thread!

Metallic and silk threads are often used in wall hangings and clothing as they will not get as much wear and tear as a bed quilt.


What is the difference between quilting thread and sewing silk? Our fabric store does not stock any special quilting threads. Is it possible to quilt with regular sewing silk?

No, quilting with sewing silks is not to be recommended. However, if motifs need to be embroidered onto the individual pieces of the quilt then sewing silks are ideal for this purpose.


Embroidery patterns created with sewing silks produce a particularly attractive, even and slightly glossy result. For quilting the best thread to use is a polyester thread such as SERALON or the cotton universal thread SILK-FINISH.


What is the difference between hand and machine quilting thread?

The Amann Group Mettler machine quilting thread is a tear-resistant spun yarn with an elegant sheen, which is perfectly suited for quilting, along with all the Amann Group Metter cotton threads.


The Amann Group Mettler QUILTING WAXED has the same strength as the machine quilting thread (40 strength) but looks finer. It is the optimal thread for this application and the number one choice for hand quilting. It can also be used on machines, but here a size 90 needle must be used.


Can I use POLY SHEEN for freestyle machine quilting and what is the difference between this and cotton?
Amann Group Mettler POLY SHEEN is the perfect thread for freestyle machine quilting. It is tear-resistant with optimal stretch qualities and therefore pulls easily and efficiently through the various layers of fabric. The attractive glossy appearance of POLY SHEEN gives the finished quilt a particularly beautiful look.
Can I use TRANSFIL as an upper thread for machine quilting?
The transparent thread TRANSFIL can be used for machine quilting. It is better to use a size 80 topstitch needle with a large eye. The tension of the thread will need to be individually tested and adjusted. TRANSFIL gives structure to the quilt without incorporating an additional color.
What do I need to consider with regard to thread tension in machine quilting? Does it depend on the thread?
In order to achieve optimum results the thread tension should be tested and adjusted for any application, whether this is machine quilting, sewing or embroidery. When machine quilting, it is generally fair to say that the upper thread tension needs to be a little looser and the lower thread tension a little tighter. However, every sewing machine is different so the tensions must be set on an individual basis.
Can I use bobbin thread as a lower thread for machine quilting?
With a certain amount of experience, bobbin thread can be used as a lower thread for machine quilting. The tension of the upper thread must be adjusted to suit this thin lower thread. Please note: Bobbin thread should only be used for ornamental quilts. It is not suitable for work on functional quilts such as patchwork coverlets.
Can I sew a cotton patchwork quilt together using a polyester thread?
Many quilters stick to the traditional concept of always using cotton thread on cotton. Period. Today, widely diverse materials are put together in both fashion and interior design. The same theory can be applied to fabrics and threads. Those who like experimenting with different materials and threads may be surprised to see the resulting possibilities. So the answer to this question is a definitive YES!
What thread can I use to quilt with a double needle?
This is a hotly debated topic. In principle, both polyester and cotton threads can be used for double needle applications. And there are now double needles with large eyes that even make it possible to use special threads such as METALLIC for quilting. However, a certain amount of sewing and/or quilting experience is necessary here.
Are embroidery threads like POLY SHEEN stable enough for machine embroidery?
POLY SHEEN from Amann Group Mettler is a multi-filament yarn and this structure produces a very special, tear-resistant thread. This makes it very good for machine quilting - even when modern, fast-stitching sewing machines are used.
Overlock
Can I use normal sewing thread on my overlock machine?
Alongside the classic overlock threads SERACOR, SERALENE and SERAFLOCK, POLY SHEEN is also very suitable for this application. Its high tensile strength also makes it possible to use it at a high stitching speed. POLY SHEEN MULTI is particularly pretty when used for visible seams. The short, colorful repeating patterns create interesting looks.
Can I tie old and new threads together on my overlock machine to save rethreading it each time?
It is perfectly possible to tie old and new threads together on an overlock machine in the same way as you would in classical needlework. The knots should not be too thick and the loose ends should be trimmed.
What is the difference between METROCOR and SERACOR?
When the two brands Amann Handel and Mettler merged to create Amann Group Mettler, the decision was made to use the prefix SERA for the overlock trade items. As a result, METROCO became SERACOR, METROFLOCK became SERAFLOCK and METROLENE became SERALENE.
Is it still possible to buy METROCOR, METROFLOCK and METROLENE?
The remaining stocks of these items have now all been used up. It is possible, however, that cones with the old labeling may still be found in some specialist shops.
Seraflock now comes in the new 120 strength. What is different about this new strength from the 100 strength thread?
We have replaced Metroflock with Seraflock. Part of the change to the new product involves changing the strength from 100 to 120. This is no longer a polyamide product; it is now 100% polyester. When using Seraflock the general rule dictates that the tension of the overlock machine should be set 1.5 - 2 tension levels lower.
General
Type and weight of thread
If I am wanting to begin thread painting (embellishing applique designs with thread) what is the type and weight of thread I should begin using. Also what needle should be used with this thread.
Thread painting is much like sewing any type of fabric. You should follow the same rules. If a fabric is light weight such as a light weight silk, use a smaller needle (size 7-10) and smaller thread (50-60 weight). The same holds true with a medium weight fabric, use size 10-12 needle and 30-40 weight thread. And denim can be very successful when used in thread painting. Use a 30 weight or heavier thread and a 14-16 needle. The best rule to remember is that there are no rules. Practice and do what works best for you. If it works, and you like it, then that’s the way it should be done.
Poly Sheen vs Metrosene Plus
Would you please explain the difference between the above two threads. I am a quilter and would like to know if one or the other is better for piecing my quilts. Thank you
Both threads Metrosene and Poly Sheen are polyester thread. Due to its special construction Poly Sheen is an exceptional shiny thread. There won’t be a big difference when using the thread for piecing. Both are high-quality threads which are great for piecing. You just need to make the decision if you would like to have a shiny or a matt thread for piecing. As you have mentioned just polyester threads I assume you only would like to use polyester. Otherwise also cotton such as Silk-Finish would be a very good choice for piecing. Please note that both – Metrosene and Poly Sheen – are highly recommended and suitable for quilting in general.
Thread Size
What does the numbering sizes 30, 40, 50 stand for?

the ticket numbers imply the thickness of the thread. The ticket number is a whole number between, usually 5 and 250. The most popular ticket numbers are those between 30 and 120. For example, weight 30 is a thicker thread than weight 50 and weight 120 is a thinner thread than weight 80.


The ticket numbers are based on the fixed length system Nm (metric count) for synthetic sewing threads and fixed length system NeB (british cotton count) for cotton sewing threads.


Nm (metric count) is the length (m) per 1 gram (g). Example: Nm 10 means that 1g of a sample has a length of 10m. That means for our all-purpose thread Metrosene, 100: 1g of of a single yarn has a length of 100m.


Of course, the ticket number has influence on the tensile strength. Our polyester all purpose thread 30 has a tensile strength (cN) of 4’300 and the same thread of weight 100 has a tensile strength (cN) of approx. 1’500. The maximum tensile strength is the maximum linear strength a thread can take before it breaks.


Turning
Are Mettler threads turned to the left?

Yarns can be Z or S turned. Z turning can be seen by the fact that the thread continues to be closed to the left as a result of the turning (anti-clockwise)...'

It is about the double-folding: Today, primarily 2-fold or 3-fold sewing threads are processed in Z turning. To retain the yarn compactness of the finished sewing thread, the simple yarn is produced in S turning and then the yarn in Z turning. These yarns are supple, have an even yarn surface and offer a beautiful seam appearance.

Amann Group Mettler yarns are Z turned!


A few days ago I acquired several reels of buttonhole silk in various different sizes. Unfortunately, I don't have a needle that will take the somewhat thicker thread. What needles are suitable for use with this thread?
In principle the following rules apply: For thicker threads of 35 strength and up it is advisable to use so-called topstitch needles. The best are the size 90 and 100 needles.
Is a 30 strength cotton thread the same thickness as a 30 strength polyester thread?

No, a cotton thread such as STICKEN-STOPFEN 30 is much thinner to look at than the polyester thread SERALON 30.


This is because different calculation formulas are used for cotton and polyester. The thread construction and the ratio of strength to length also play a role in determining whether a thread looks thicker or thinner.


an I use elastic threads on my sewing machine? If so, what do I need to take into account?
Yes, for smocking applications. The thread is wound onto the spool by hand with a gentle tension. SERALON is a very suitable upper thread. Use a stitch length of 4-6mm. Adjust the tension of both the upper and lower threads. Sew at regular distances and you will achieve an elasticized smocking effect.
dealer has recently started to sell ISACORD threads, which appear to have the same color numbers as Poly Sheen threads. Is that right?
Yes, ISACORD has the same color numbers as POLY SHEEN.
Where is Seralon thread produced?
Seralon is made in the EU. Our production facility is in the Czech Republic.

Arova Mettler AG . Washingtonstrasse 34 . 9401 Rorschach . Switzerland
Telefon +41 (0)71 844 89 30 . Telefax +41 (0)71 841 31 20 . www.amann-mettler.com

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application questions

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"Our all-rounder SERALON in the thickness 30 is very well suited for this. This sewing thread has the right quality features for demanding sewing tasks, even if thicker materials are used. This..." - 29.12.2009

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